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| View
of Largo do Pelourinho, the address
of Jorge Amado House.
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Largo do Pelourinho lies in
the very heart of the city of Salvador's oldest quarter. At the
foot of the old Carmo Gates, next to Terreiro de Jesus square and
one of the most famous groups of baroque churches in the Americas:
São Francisco, with its gilded carvings; Rosário dos
Pretos and Passo and the imposing Cathedral Basilica, once the church
of the Jesuit College where poet Gregório de Mattos went
to school and Father Antônio Vieira preached his famous sermons.
Officially called José
de Alencar Plaza, Largo do Pelourinho got its name because for many
years it was a place of punishment where convicts were exposed to
the gaze of passersby and public vilification by being tied to a
pillory ("pelourinho" in Portuguese). Torrents of blood
have flowed on the rounded stones of its pavement, polished by time,
particularly the blood of tortured slaves who often died there,
the victims of their longing for freedom and the cruelty of their
owners. Jorge Amado House overlooks this spot, the scene of so many
tragedies, the setting of so much suffering, but also a place of
intense beauty, portrayed in photographs published around the world,
a must-have postcard for anyone who visits Salvador.
The chosen site could not be
more fitting. After all, Largo do Pelourinho is one of the landmarks
in the vast territory formed by the work of Bahia's most beloved
son and author. ("Amado" means beloved.) Among the ghosts
of the past and the varied populace that dwells in the district's
imposing townhouses, the characters Jorge created move about at
ease. Going beyond the barriers of language, he took the stories
of his people to all four corners of the globe. Antônio Balduíno
and Corporal Martim wandered these sloping streets. Pedro Arcanjo
died here. Quincas Berro Dágua was reborn in Pelourinho,
where Dona Flor came to seek advice from Dionísia de Oxossi.
Jubiabá could pop out from the shadows of an ancient doorway.
Or it might be Jesuíno Galo Doido from Shepherds of the
Night.
If passersby are lucky, they
could even catch the scent of Tereza Batista's perfume as she vanishes
around the corner. But they will be sure to find the people of Bahia
in these historic streets - joyous, communicative, long-suffering
and proud of their homeland.
If you have time and want to
learn a bit more about the life of art and literature in Bahia,
the doors of Jorge Amado House are open.

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